{"id":2986,"date":"2023-08-23T21:51:22","date_gmt":"2023-08-23T21:51:22","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/adrian-werum.com\/marienbad\/"},"modified":"2024-05-25T14:22:17","modified_gmt":"2024-05-25T14:22:17","slug":"marienbad","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/adrian-werum.com\/fr\/marienbad\/","title":{"rendered":"Marienbad"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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Lorsque j’ai voulu d\u00e9cider si je voulais visiter Karlovy Vary, Franzensbad ou Mari\u00e1nsk\u00e9 L\u00e1zn ? en me rem\u00e9morant sur la carte de ma m\u00e9moire les noms des bains mondains de Boh\u00eame, Goethe est venu \u00e0 mon secours. Je connaissais encore l'\u00a0\u00bbEl\u00e9gie de Marienbad\u00a0\u00bb comme po\u00e8me et comme \u00e9pisode de sa vie. La d\u00e9cision a donc \u00e9t\u00e9 prise assez rapidement, soutenue par la facilit\u00e9 d’acc\u00e8s depuis l’autoroute Nuremberg-Prague.<\/p>\n\n

Le Haut-Palatinat, que l’on traverse sur le chemin de Marienbad, n’est plus du tout aussi aride et pauvre qu’il l’\u00e9tait peut-\u00eatre \u00e0 l’\u00e9poque du compositeur Max Reger. Des petites localit\u00e9s bien entretenues avec des zones industrielles ultramodernes parlent avec \u00e9loquence de la transformation dynamique qu’a connue l’ancien \u00c9tat agricole de Bavi\u00e8re. <\/p>\n\n

Les installations frontali\u00e8res non occup\u00e9es avec la Tch\u00e9quie restent pour moi l’un des miracles de l’histoire europ\u00e9enne r\u00e9cente. Les contr\u00f4les frontaliers fanatiquement pr\u00e9cis et presque sadiques du d\u00e9funt r\u00e9gime communiste sont encore trop vivants pour moi.<\/p>\n\n

La r\u00e9gion des Sud\u00e8tes, de l’autre c\u00f4t\u00e9 de la fronti\u00e8re, est encore marqu\u00e9e par l’exode de la population allemande. Par rapport au reste de la Tch\u00e9quie, l’\u00e9conomie y est encore nettement \u00e0 la tra\u00eene.<\/p>\n\n

Peu peupl\u00e9e, parsem\u00e9e de vieilles fermes souvent l\u00e9g\u00e8rement d\u00e9labr\u00e9es, la r\u00e9gion offre un calme et un romantisme qui, en Bavi\u00e8re, ont disparu depuis longtemps derri\u00e8re l’activit\u00e9 intense.<\/p>\n\n

La magie d’une route de campagne bord\u00e9e de bouleaux d\u00e9licats est difficile \u00e0 capturer avec des mots. Les branches ext\u00e9rieures se balancent comme des guirlandes et redoublent d’effet lorsqu’elles se refl\u00e8tent dans l’eau des \u00e9tangs voisins. Alors que l’on s’attend \u00e0 une vie rurale retir\u00e9e, Marienbad se dresse comme un mirage du XIXe si\u00e8cle dans cette paisible idylle.<\/p>\n\n

Une grandeur incomparable, \u00e0 c\u00f4t\u00e9 de laquelle les autres stations thermales c\u00e9l\u00e8bres d’Europe font presque p\u00e2le figure, se dresse entre les grandes for\u00eats de la r\u00e9gion, dans une vall\u00e9e sauvage et romantique. L’architecture est \u00e9poustouflante par son sens des proportions et sa beaut\u00e9. Il est incroyable que toutes les trag\u00e9dies du 20e si\u00e8cle aient si peu affect\u00e9 ce monde. Mari\u00e1nsk\u00e9 L\u00e1zn\u011b est encore aujourd’hui un symbole de ce qu’il y a de plus beau dans la culture europ\u00e9enne.<\/p>\n\n

L’El\u00e9gie de Marienbad de Goethe s’int\u00e8gre ainsi \u00e0 merveille dans ce joyau situ\u00e9 entre les hautes for\u00eats de h\u00eatres de la Boh\u00eame occidentale, avec son amour de la vieillesse qui semble aujourd’hui presque grotesque, mais qui se transforme ensuite en une passion insaisissable.<\/p>\n\n

L’ensemble du lieu semble totalement d\u00e9connect\u00e9 de la surabondance d’informations et des catastrophes imagin\u00e9es ou ressenties du 21e si\u00e8cle. Et pourtant, ce n’est pas le cas : de nombreux appartements aristocratiques sont vides et les habitants \u00e9migrent \u00e0 Prague ou en Allemagne pour travailler.<\/p>\n\n

Le dimanche, il y a une messe protestante bilingue, le pr\u00eatre faisant \u00e9galement office d’organiste. V\u00e9ritable touche-\u00e0-tout du Seigneur, il met m\u00eame les chants \u00e0 la page dans la bonne tonalit\u00e9 pour l’assembl\u00e9e. De nombreuses chansons ont voyag\u00e9 entre les diff\u00e9rentes cultures europ\u00e9ennes, montrant une fois de plus \u00e0 quel point ce continent est culturellement imbriqu\u00e9 les uns dans les autres.<\/p>\n\n

Dans ce cadre, le message de l’hom\u00e9lie, qui exhorte \u00e0 ne pas trop c\u00e9der aux tentations du pr\u00e9sent, semble authentique et annonce le temps long dans lequel l’\u00c9glise pense. Mais le soin apport\u00e9 \u00e0 l’allemand par le pasteur est \u00e9galement un bienfait, qui, peut-\u00eatre sans le vouloir, attire l’attention sur la beaut\u00e9 de la langue.<\/p>\n\n

En partant le lendemain matin, je me sens rafra\u00eechi au niveau de l’esprit, un mot que j’avais \u00e9galement presque oubli\u00e9. Il est difficile de savoir ce qui a \u00e9t\u00e9 le plus stimulant : les sources d’eau min\u00e9rale qui jaillissent partout ou le sentiment d’\u00eatre arriv\u00e9 dans la patrie de ma propre culture.<\/p>\n\n

Pour conclure, voici quelques lignes tir\u00e9es de l’\u00e9l\u00e9gie de Marienbad de Goethe :<\/p>\n\n

Dans la puret\u00e9 de notre poitrine, une aspiration s’agite,<\/em><\/p>\n\n

se rapprocher d’un plus grand, d’un plus pur, d’un inconnu<\/em><\/p>\n\n

Se donner volontairement par gratitude,<\/em><\/p>\n\n

se d\u00e9voilant aux \u00e9ternels inconnus ;<\/em><\/p>\n\n

Nous l’appelons : \u00eatre pieux ! – Une telle hauteur bienheureuse<\/em><\/p>\n\n

Je me sens partag\u00e9 quand je suis devant elle.<\/em><\/p>\n\n

Et voici le plus beau cadre que l’on puisse donner \u00e0 ce po\u00e8me :<\/p>\n\n

Les \u00ab\u00a0Heures de gloire de l’humanit\u00e9\u00a0\u00bb de Stefan Zweig <\/p>\n\n

https:\/\/de.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Sternstunden_der_Menschheit<\/a><\/p>\n\n

<\/p>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Lorsque j’ai voulu d\u00e9cider si je voulais visiter Karlovy Vary, Franzensbad ou Mari\u00e1nsk\u00e9 L\u00e1zn ? en me rem\u00e9morant sur la […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_uf_show_specific_survey":0,"_uf_disable_surveys":false,"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"default","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","ast-disable-related-posts":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"default","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"ast-content-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"footnotes":""},"categories":[41,40],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2986","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-philosophie-fr","category-voyages"],"yoast_head":"\nMarienbad - 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